There are six main types of dog brushes: slicker brushes, pin brushes, bristle brushes, rubber curry brushes, undercoat rakes and deshedding tools, plus a metal comb to check your work. Which one your dog needs depends on the coat: short and smooth coats do best with rubber or bristle, long and curly coats need a slicker and a comb, and double coats need an undercoat rake.
Most dogs do well with two tools: one that works on the coat underneath and one that finishes the top. Below is what each brush does, which coat it suits, and how to use it without pulling.
First, work out your dog's coat type
Part the hair with your fingers and look at it close to the skin.
- Short and smooth (Boxer, Beagle, Pit Bull): one short layer that lies flat.
- Double coat (Labrador, Husky, German Shepherd, Golden Retriever): a soft, dense undercoat under longer guard hairs. These dogs "blow" their coat once or twice a year.
- Long and silky (Shih Tzu, Yorkie, Maltese): fine hair that tangles easily.
- Curly or wavy (Poodle, Doodles, Bichon): hair that keeps growing and mats close to the skin.
- Wiry (most terriers, Schnauzer): coarse, springy outer hair.
Slicker brush: everyday tangles and loose fur
A slicker brush has fine, bent wire pins packed close together. It lifts loose hair and works out small tangles before they turn into mats, which makes it the everyday brush for long, curly, wavy and double coats. Use light, short strokes and brush in small sections; the pins should glide, never scrape the skin.
Fur builds up in the pins quickly. A self-cleaning slicker brush with a release button saves you picking hair out of the bristles halfway through a session.
Pin brush: finishing long coats
A pin brush looks like a human hairbrush, with straight pins that are spaced wider and often have rounded tips. It does not pull out much undercoat; it smooths and separates long hair after the tangles are out. Think of it as the finishing brush for long and silky coats.
Bristle brush: shine on short coats
Bristle brushes have tightly packed natural or nylon bristles. On short, smooth coats they sweep away loose hair and dust and spread the coat's natural oils. They do very little on long or thick coats, because the bristles cannot reach the skin.
Rubber curry brush or grooming glove: short-haired shedders
Rubber nubs grip loose hair on short coats and many dogs enjoy the massage. Use small circles against the coat, then brush with it to lift the hair away. This is often all a short-haired dog needs, and it is handy at bath time because it works the shampoo in too.
Undercoat rake: double-coated dogs
An undercoat rake has one or two rows of longer, widely spaced teeth that reach through the top coat and pull out loose, dead undercoat. For Labs, Huskies, Shepherds and Goldens, this is the tool that makes the biggest difference to shedding around the house.
Work on a dry coat, brush in the direction the hair grows and use light pressure. A two-sided tool like the Undercoat Pro rake has one side for small knots and one for loose undercoat. Our guide on how to brush a double-coated dog walks through it step by step.
Deshedding tool: heavy shedding seasons
Deshedding tools have a short, fine-toothed edge that catches loose undercoat close to the skin. They remove a lot of hair fast, so use them gently and not every day; once or twice a week in shedding season is plenty for most dogs. Never use one on a coat that has mats, cuts or irritated skin. For more on the whole routine, see how to deshed a dog at home.
Metal comb: the final check
A steel comb is not really a brush, but it tells you whether you are done. Run it from the skin outward; if it catches, there is still a tangle there. It is especially useful behind the ears, under the legs and around the collar, where mats hide.
Which brush for which coat
- Short and smooth: rubber curry brush or glove, then a bristle brush.
- Double coat: undercoat rake (or deshedding tool in season), then a slicker brush.
- Long and silky: slicker brush, pin brush, metal comb.
- Curly or wavy: slicker brush and metal comb, brushed down to the skin in sections.
- Wiry: slicker brush and comb; many wiry coats are also hand-stripped by a groomer.
If you are shopping for a shedder, our shedding tools are grouped together in one place.
How often to brush
Short coats: once a week. Double coats: two or three times a week, daily while they shed. Long, silky and curly coats: most days, because tangles form fast. Short, regular sessions are easier on your dog than one long fight. Keep treats close and stop before your dog gets restless.
FAQ
What is the best type of brush for a dog that sheds a lot?
For a double-coated shedder, an undercoat rake does the most work, followed by a slicker brush to tidy the top coat. For a short-haired shedder, a rubber curry brush or grooming glove usually works best.
Can I use a slicker brush on a short-haired dog?
You can, gently, but it is often more than a short coat needs. A rubber brush or bristle brush is more comfortable on thin coats with little padding.
Is a pin brush the same as a slicker brush?
No. Pin brushes have straight, widely spaced pins for smoothing long hair. Slicker brushes have fine, bent pins packed closely together for removing loose fur and small tangles.
How do I know if I am brushing too hard?
Red or scratched skin, flinching or your dog walking away are all signs to ease off. If you see sores, redness that does not settle, or a mat pressed tight against the skin, ask your vet or a professional groomer before brushing further.
Do I need more than one dog brush?
Most dogs do best with two: one tool for the undercoat or tangles and one for finishing. Add a metal comb if your dog has long or curly hair.